The Lost City of Loyola

In 2011 we explored the old Inca – and probably even pre-Inca – route from Amaluza to Palanda, crossing the Cordillera de Sabanilla. After the tour we talked to some of the locals in Palanda about our adventure and, as we were obviously crazy enough to do it, people told us about an expedition to the lost city of Loyola, which lies seemingly hidden in the rainforest on the lower end of the eastern Andean ridges, roughly south east of Podocarpus National Park. Although we were too tired to start another adventure right away, our interest was stirred. Soon after our return to Quito we started gathering information on the Lost City, trying to figure out if it really exists and if so, where to look for it.  

During our research we found out that, most importantly, the city indeed does exist and has been registered by the INPC (Instituto Nacional de Patrimonio Cultural). Nevertheless, hardly any information about the city itself exists or at least hardly any information was available. The little information we found was not recognized and could not be verified. Nevertheless, it seems that a pre-Hispanic city called Cumbinama existed in this location before it was taken by the Spanish Conquistadores in the 16^th century who founded the City of Loyola in its place. Around the year 1700 the last inhabitants left the city and moved towards the west, higher up the Andean slopes. Since then, the city had basically been regarded as lost. This was not the whole truth, as the people of the Shuar tribes living in this area always knew about it. When colonists, bit by bit, started settling in the valleys of the south-eastern cordillera they came in contact with the Shuar, and, by exchanging goods, they also exchanged information about the area and thus people became aware once again of the existence of the City of Loyola….as did we!

It took us until March 2013 to organize our tour to the Lost City of Loyola. First we flew from Quito to Catamayo where Loja airport is located. Here we were picked up by a 4x4 and drove south to Loja, passing through Malacatus, Vilcabamba, Yangana and Valladolid to Palanda. After a short stop we left the main road and continued on a dusty road to the east, driving down the cordillera into the cloud forest. Passing San Francisco de Vergel we finally reached the small village of La Canela in the late afternoon. It took us the rest of the day to organize a local guide for the next day, a pick-up truck to drop us off at the end of the road (we left our car in the village) and a nice dinner with a cold beer (the last for a number of days). Fortunately, we were invited to stay at a local home as there are no hotels in the village. The next morning we left the village at 6:00am and drove for about an hour further east, mainly following Rio Vergel until the road ended. Here we shouldered our back-packs and started a very long day of hiking on small (or non-existant) paths down the cloud forest which changed into tropical forest along the way. It was raining most of the time and the path was extremely muddy and slippery, making it very difficult hiking with the heavy backpacks. Finally, at sundown, we reached the last finca (local farm) at the end of the farming area. On the other side of River Vergel the Shuar Territory starts, and in there the lost city was waiting for us. Well, it had to wait for quite some time as it kept raining for several days and the river was swelled, making it impossible for us to cross. We waited for three days with nothing more to do but watch the river grow even more instead of its waters going down. So, on the morning of the fourth day, we decided, with heavy hearts, to return to La Canela and give it another try in the dry season.


It was one and a half years later, in November 2014, when we finally managed to coordinate our second attempt at reaching the lost city. Again we flew in from Quito and drove down to La Canela, which we reached again in the afternoon. This time we didn´t want to run the risk of not having enough time to reach our goal, so we continued right away. We were dropped off at the end of the road and started our hike with our local guide who had been informed of our arrival, reaching the farm area just around sunset. We stayed at one of the local farms for the night - people here are amazingly friendly, welcoming visitors with a big smile and an even bigger meal. The next morning we continued, reaching the last finca in the early afternoon. To our great relief the waters of the river were low enough to be crossed. Still, it was too late to continue to the lost city the same day and we didn´t want to risk having to find our way through the jungle in the middle of the night. This time we were lucky, and even though it rained a bit during the night, we crossed the river the next morning without any problems. Our local guide did not only know the route through the dense jungle (it would have taken much longer to figure out the route without him) but, as he knew the local Shuar community well, he had their permission to enter their territory – he strongly emphasized the importance of not entering their territory without their permission or at least someone who does have it. It took us nearly 4 hours of cutting our way through the thicket to finally reach the Shuar Center Nayump. From here it was a short 15 minute walk until we found the walls of the Lost City of Loyola - we had finally made it! Excited, we started to explore the city and its walls in the pouring rain (this is what they call dry season in the rainforest!). There seemed to be different types of walls; some ramparts forming mainly the outer walls while others looked more like wall barriers used either for buildings or for forming terraces. The vegetation was extremely dense, making it very hard to get a clear picture of the structures, their form and use. Nevertheless, we formed a rough drawing of the city, as far as we could identify it (with great help from our guide!):

In the afternoon, we decided not to stay in the community house but to return to the finca, as it soon became obvious that we would not be able to do better investigate the ruins the next day. To do more intense research of the site, and get a better view of the ruins and their structure, it would need to be cleared of the vegetation covering basically everything, something we had neither the permission nor the means to do. So we headed back, still excited about having reached the lost city and about its huge size: it covers about 2 – 3 hectares, with most of the walls still clearly visible, being between 1 – 1.5 meters high. No wonder we enthusiastically talked the whole way back about the city, reaching the finca after only 2 hours – we had been practically running back without even noticing!

We stayed two more days with our friendly host at his finca, exploring the area nearby and even panning for some gold, or at least trying to. As we learned the hard way, the rivers here do not provide much gold; still, it was quite an adventurous afternoon by the river. Due to the lack of gold in the surrounding rivers we assumed that the main function of Loyola had probably not been a center for gold panning or mining but as a trade post between the rainforest and the Andes, for example for cinnamon (which, in Spanish, is called Canela, the name of the little village higher up). Finally, it was time for us to say goodbye and take on the hike back to La Canela. It took us a long day to make it back, but hey, we finally caught a day without rain! All in all, a great adventure to the no longer lost City of Loyola!

Here is some information for anyone interested in visiting Loyola:

We took the route from the Andes down to the rainforest, but we learned you can also hike up from the lower rainforest. In this case you need to travel from Loja via Zamora, Zumbi, Guayzimi and Zurmi to Puerto Las Orquídeas, where the road ends and you have to take a boat (canoe) upriver to “Las Mariposas” (sometimes people use different names for the same place; ask around) and hike up from here through the Shuar territory. We only saw the trail in the upper part (in the area of the City of Loyola and the Shuar Center Nayump), where it was easy to follow. Nevertheless, for any route we strongly recommend getting a local guide and making sure you (or your guide) have permission to enter the Shuar territory.

For the trip down the Andes we can warmly recommend Don Maximo Luzuriaga and Pedro Ordoñez as local guides to the finca area; both can be contacted in La Canela. As a guide for the last part to Loyola, we went with Rolando Castillo, who owns one of the last fincas before the Shuar territory and who is an excellent guide and the best guarantee that you will not get lost during your adventure! Besides knowing the whole area like the back of his hand, he is a great cook and a very welcoming host too. Good luck!

Quilotoa , one of the most beautiful volcanic lakes in the Ecuadorian Andes

                                                                       

  "A crater lagoon with turquoise water in the volcano named Quilotoa is one of the postcards of Ecuador."

Product of the collapse of Quilotoa volcano, about 800 years ago, a caldera was formed with a perimeter of about 9 km and 250m of depth, within which is formed a lagoon with turquoise colored water when struck by sunlight..

To begin our adventure we head south of Quito looking for the Panamerican highway on the so called "Avenue of the Volcanoes", the name given by the famous explorer Alexander von Humboldt, as from Quito to Riobamba volcanoes can be seen on both sides of the road: Pasochoa, Corazon, Illinizas, Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui, etc. 

 Arriving at Latacunga you should leave the Panamerican Highway and drive westwards into the Zumbahua region. From the town of Zumbahua it takes around another 10 km to reach Quilotoa. The entry has the value of 1 USD for Ecuadorians and 2 USD for foreigners.

"Visit the Quilotoa is an awesome experience around 3800 meters above sea level"

This lake is considered one of the most beautiful volcanic lakes in the Ecuadorian Andes. From the crater edge and on a clear day you can see the different snow-capped volcanoes.

A walk will take you through this fascinating landscape and provide many impressions of this beautiful region.

The Quilotoa, Zumbahua, Tigua, Shalala, Chugchilán, Guayama Itupungo and San Pedro communities offer accommodation in hostels, hotels and cottages. 

For those who like sports activities like Trekking, Hiking, Horseback Riding, Camping, kayaks and boats can be rented. The way up from the lagoon to the crater edge can be done by foot (1.5 hours) or by mule (45 minutes) for 8 USD.

The natives, handicrafts, flora, fauna, weather, food and geography make this region one of the most desired by national and international tourists.

Otavalo Market

Almost two hours north of Quito is the city of Otavalo, famous  for its Market especially dedicated to trade fabrics, textile crafts, pottery, ornaments, antiques and tourist attractions. The Otavalo Market is the quintessential craft center where you can have everything you need, currently being the preferred place for tourists to buy their purchases.

The weekly show has become one of the most important tourist centers, but besides this recent transformation Otavalo has been able to preserve its old roots that go back to pre-Columbian or even pre-Inca times.

An amazing maze of fabrics and clothes in bright colors extends from there for a number of streets around the square every Saturday. The rest of the week, the market is restricted to the Plaza and direct surrounding. Almost anything can be found while wandering the crowded streets, from coats to paintings, handmade jewelry, crafts, wall carpets and even ceramic fried eggs. Do not worry to leave the main streets as the entire city of Otavalo is a big market where you can find everything you can imagine or couldn’t do far.

Accommodation

In Otavalo there is absolutely no shortage of lodging options. The vast majority are hostels or inns, clean, friendly and central located managed by families that offer rooms with shared bathrooms at very low costs. There are also plenty of options from cheap to hotels with higher standards.

To enjoy the tranquility and natural beauty of the nearby sites, we recommend unpack your bags in one of the nearby farms. These huge ranches dating from the time of the conquest and have witnessed much of the history of Ecuador.

During the 90s many estates turned to tourism and converted into hotels that provide luxurious accommodation, fine dining and outdoor excursions to the beautiful Andean landscapes that surround them.

Beyond Otavalo

Just as Otavalo is famous for its textile productions, some nearby communities so are for their own productions. Such is the case of Cotacachi, the center of the leather industry in Ecuador, where the smell of polished leather permeates the air. The local specialty is San Antonio woodcarving. Its main street is lined with shops selling everything from wood, from statues, small carved figures, pictures, frames and home furnishings.

In addition to the walk to the waterfall of Peguche, there exists a large number of lakes in which you can spend a pleasant afternoon. These are: Laguna Mojanda, Lake San Pablo and the Lagoon of Cuicocha. This huge Imbabura region also offers great opportunities for horseback riding, water sports, hiking and mountaineering. Several of the farms and inns in the region offer these trips.

Source: http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/es/html/la-ciudad-de-otavalo.html

The Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are one of the greatest treasures we can find in the Pacific Ocean. The islands are also called “Colon Archipelago”, its capital is Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.

The Enchanted Islands, the archipelago designation earned in the sixteenth century by the great biodiversity of flora and fauna for generations inheriting the name, are 19 islands and hundreds of small islands where life takes on a special dimension, known in the whole world by its endemic and studies by Darwin's theory of evolution species.

The archipelago is one of the most active volcanic groups in the world. Many of the islands are only the tips of some volcanoes and show an advanced state of erosion.

A study in 1952 by historians Thor Heyerdahl and Arne Skjolsvold, ceramics revealed that some people may find Incas before the arrival of the Spaniards, however there were no graves, vessels and to disclose any old building settlements before colonization.

On March 10, 1535 -discovered by the Bishop of Panama Tomás de Berlanga- while traveling from Panama to Peru along the west coast of South America, wind and ocean currents gradually pushed the boat too westward reaching what we now know as the Galapagos Islands.

In a letter to the King of Spain -Tomás de Berlanga- recounts his arrival in the islands:

"Once the boat docked, we all went down and some of the crew were given the job of making a well and others were sent to get water inside the Island. Within the Island men could not find a single drop of water for two days.

The thirst was too much and as a last resort people attended a similar fruits prickly pears, and juicy as they were somewhat, but not very tasty, we started eating them, and squeezing out to extract as much water as possible and men drank of this fruit."

The Galapagos were used as a hideout for English pirates on their trips to plunder Spanish galleons carrying gold and silver from America to Spain. The first recorded pirate who visited the islands was Englishman Richard Hawkins in 1593. Since then many pirates came to the archipel.

An interesting anecdote in the history of the Galapagos Islands was when Alexander Selkirk, whose adventures in the Islands "Juan Fernandez" inspired Daniel Defoe to write the novel Robinson Crusoe, visited the Galápagos in 1708 after it was rescued from Juan Fernandez Woodes Rogers.

Rogers was fixing their boats in the Galapagos after looting the city of Guayaquil in Ecuador.

The first scientific mission arrived in Galapagos in 1790 under the leadership of Alessandro Malaspina, who was a Sicilian captain whose expedition was sponsored by the King of Spain. But this expedition records were lost.

In the seventeenth century is beginning to populate the area when the navigator James Colnett describes the place as some islands rich in flora and fauna, which attracted the first settlers, mostly English, with interest in whales, sea lions and mainly for the Galapagos tortoises to extract their fat, fat discovery of sperm whales also attracted many whalers which led to a makeshift post office where boats left and collected letters believed.

Ecuador annexed the Galápagos Islands on February 12, 1832 under the government of General Juan José Flores, baptizing as “Colon Archipelago”.

The September 15, 1835 the ship Beagle brought aboard the British expedition under the command of Captain Robert Fitz Roy Galapagos to investigate isolated places hardly visited by boaters. This list of places include Valparaiso, Callao, Galapagos Islands, Tahiti, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope and anchored back in Falmouth on October 2, 1836. The captain and others on board, including the young naturalist Charles Darwin made ​​a scientific study of geology and biology on four of the islands before continuing his expedition around the world. The ship remained afloat for 5 weeks in the islands, but Darwin was on the ground just for two weeks, there investigated animals from the region would lead in the future to make Darwin's Origin of Species.

An Irish man named Patrick Watkins was a hermit and was the first person who lived in the Galapagos Islands, specifically on Floreana Island in 1807.

Watkins lived alone and was famous for providing vegetables to the whalers in exchange for Ron for many years until he left the island in an unknown direction.

Then the General José Villamil arrived in 1832. Villamil (Ecuadorian general) founded a penal colony for political prisoners and common criminals who exchanged meat and vegetables with the whalers.

In the late twenties Dr. Friedrich Ritter arrived at the Islands with his wife. The story says he extracted his teeth before going to Galapagos to avoid having to take them off after it.

The second group were the Wittmer´s, a family from the city of Cologne in Germany.

The final group and one of the most talked about were three lovers who escorted the Baroness von Wagner Bosquet who had plans to build a luxury hotel.

The earlier settlers were appalled at the arrival of this new character who later called himself "Empress of Floreana".

But the story ends on a mystery as all settlers from Mrs. Strauch Doer and the Wittmer family began to fade and die along with Dr. Ritter who died eating poisoned meat which was very strange because he was a vegetarian.

The Baroness also disappeared with one of her 3 lovers.

A book published in 1961 and was a best seller is based on the life of Margaret Wittmer who was one of the oldest survivors of the Galapagos. She died in 2000 aged 95.

ENDEMIC SPECIES

Endemic reptiles

Galapagos tortoise

• Previously there were 14 species of Galapagos tortoises, three became extinct in the nineteenth century and ended on June 24, 2012, with its last issue “Lonesome George”.

There are still ten species of giant tortoises (Galapagos turtle or terrapin) belonging to the genus Chelonoidis.

• Land iguanas (Conolophus subcristatus, Conolophus Conolophus pallidus and pink).

• The marine iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus), the only species of iguana that seeks its food in the sea.

Endemic mammals

• Galapagos Sea Lion Galapagos sea lion or (Zalophus wollebaeki), related to the California sea lion (also described as Zalophus californianus wollebaeki, a subspecies of the California sea lion).

• Lobo furrier or fur seals Galapagos Galapagos (Arctocephalus galapagoensis), which is the world's smallest (Salazar 2002).

  

Endemic Bird

Galapagos Penguins

• Lava Gull (Larus fuliginosus).

• 13 endemic species of finches, of which the best known is a kind of vampire bird that feeds on the blood of infected birds and is known as Darwin's finches, which inhabits the most northern island of the archipelago named Wolf.

• Galapagos penguin or booby of the Galapagos (Spheniscus mendiculus), the only penguin species that has been recorded in the northern hemisphere, in the northern part of Isabela Island.

• Cormorant or Galapagos Cormorant (Phalacrocorax harrisi).

• Kestrel or the Galapagos hawk (Buteo galapagoensis).

• dwarf Galapagos Heron (Butorides sundevalli).

• Waved Albatross (Phoebastria irrorata).

• Leg stuck (Pterodroma phaeopygia).

• Burrito Galapagos (Laterallus spilonotus).